How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide for Every Faucet Type

To fix a leaky faucet, shut off the water under the sink, plug the drain, take the handle apart, and replace the worn part inside — a rubber washer on a compression faucet, or the cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc seals on a modern single-handle faucet. Most repairs take under an hour and cost less than $25 in parts. The trick is identifying which of the four faucet types you have before you buy anything, because the fix is different for each.

Below you’ll find the steps for each type, how to tell where the leak is coming from, and the handful of situations where a “simple drip” is actually a sign of a pressure or pipe problem that needs a plumber.

First: where is the faucet leaking from?

Where the water shows up tells you what’s worn out:

What you’ll need

• Adjustable wrench and a set of Allen (hex) keys
• Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
• Replacement washer, O-ring, or cartridge for your faucet brand (take the old part to the store or look up the model number)
• Plumber’s grease (silicone-based) and white vinegar
• A rag to plug the drain so small screws don’t disappear

Step 1: Shut off the water and relieve the pressure

Turn the two shutoff valves under the sink clockwise until they stop. If they’re stuck or corroded — common in older Tampa Bay homes with original valves — don’t force them; shut off the main water supply to the house instead. Then open the faucet to release the remaining pressure and plug the drain.

Step 2: Identify your faucet type

There are four types, and the repair depends entirely on which one you have:

Step 3: Take the handle apart

1. Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle with a flat-head screwdriver.
2. Remove the handle screw underneath (often an Allen screw on single-handle faucets) and lift the handle straight off.
3. Lay each part out in the order you removed it. Photograph it with your phone — it makes reassembly foolproof.

Step 4: Replace the worn part

Compression faucet

1. Unscrew the packing nut with your wrench and lift out the stem.
2. At the bottom of the stem is a rubber seat washer held by a brass screw. Remove it and match it exactly at the hardware store.
3. While it’s apart, replace the O-ring on the stem and check the valve seat inside the faucet body with your fingertip. If it feels rough or pitted, the new washer won’t seal — dress or replace the seat.
4. Coat the new washer and O-ring with plumber’s grease and reassemble.

Cartridge faucet

1. Remove the retaining clip (a small U-shaped clip) or the retaining nut holding the cartridge.
2. Pull the cartridge straight up. Some brands need a cartridge puller if it’s stuck from hard-water scale.
3. Match the cartridge by brand and model — they are not interchangeable. Many manufacturers replace them free under lifetime warranty if you call.
4. Grease the new O-rings, seat the new cartridge in the same orientation as the old one, and replace the clip.

Ball faucet

1. Loosen the set screw and remove the handle, then unscrew the cap and collar.
2. Lift out the cam, cam washer, and the ball.
3. Using needle-nose pliers, pull out the two rubber seats and springs beneath. Replace them with the new set (a repair kit includes everything).
4. Reassemble in reverse order and tighten the adjusting ring until there’s no leak around the handle.

Ceramic disc faucet

1. Remove the handle and the escutcheon cap, then unscrew the disc cylinder’s mounting screws.
2. Lift the cylinder out and pull the neoprene seals from the underside.
3. Clean the cylinder openings with vinegar, install new seals, and reassemble.
4. Turn the water back on slowly — a sudden blast of pressure can crack a ceramic disc.

Step 5: Reassemble and test

Put everything back in the order you photographed, turn the supply valves on gradually, and run the faucet for a minute. Turn it off and watch the spout for a full 60 seconds. A slow drip at this point usually means the washer isn’t seated or the valve seat is damaged.

Step 6: Fix a leak at the base of the spout (if that’s your problem)

On a kitchen faucet with a swivel spout, pull the spout straight up off the body after removing the handle. You’ll see one or two O-rings on the body. Cut the old ones off, grease the new ones, and press them into the grooves. This five-minute repair stops the puddle on the counter.

When a leaky faucet is not a DIY job

Call a plumber instead of continuing when:

• The shutoff valves under the sink won’t close or start leaking themselves. Old multi-turn valves often fail the moment they’re touched. Replacing them is quick for a plumber and prevents a flood later.
• The leak came back within weeks of a repair. That usually means a damaged valve seat or excessive water pressure (above 80 psi) that’s destroying seals throughout the house — a pressure-reducing valve is the real fix.
• Multiple faucets started dripping around the same time. Same cause: pressure, or a failing pressure-reducing valve.
• The faucet body is corroded or cracked, or the leak is from the supply lines or under the sink. At that point replacement is usually cheaper than another repair.
• You have a wall-mounted or shower faucet leaking — the valve is behind the wall and the repair is different.

A single faucet dripping once per second wastes roughly 3,000 gallons a year — enough to show up on your water bill. Fixing it is one of the highest-return repairs in the house.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to fix a leaky faucet?

Doing it yourself costs $5–$25 for a washer or O-ring kit and $15–$60 for a cartridge. Hiring a plumber typically runs $125–$300 depending on the faucet type and whether the shutoff valves also need replacing. If the faucet is more than 15 years old, ask about replacing it instead — a new mid-range faucet installed is often not much more than a complex repair.

Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?

No. The moment you remove the cartridge or stem, water under full pressure will shoot out of the faucet body. Always close the shutoff valves under the sink or the home’s main valve first.

Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the washer?

Either the new washer is the wrong size or shape, the valve seat beneath it is pitted and needs resurfacing, or the stem’s O-ring is letting water bypass. Take the faucet apart again and check the seat with a fingertip — it should feel perfectly smooth.

How do I know what brand my faucet is?

Look for a logo on the handle cap, the base plate, or the spout. If there’s no marking, photograph the cartridge once it’s out; hardware stores and manufacturer websites can identify it. Moen, Delta, Kohler, and Pfister cover the majority of faucets in US homes.

Is a dripping faucet an emergency?

A drip from the spout is not an emergency, but a leak under the sink is urgent because it damages cabinets and flooring within days and invites mold. If you find a wet cabinet, shut off the valves and get it addressed right away.